By official decree (from those decree such things), the first Friday of June is recognized annually as National Fish and Chips Day.
Apparently this became official in 2015, when the National Edible Oil Distributors Association (NEODA) wanted to raise awareness of the fried fish industry and its impact on so many communities (you knew that Big Edible Oil was behind this, didn’t you?).
While Fish and Chips may make you think of Great Britain, where it is the national dish, it’s safe to say any seaside community will serve up a version. Aquidneck Island, of course, is no exception.
Fish and Chips first arrived on the scene in Great Britain in the late 19th century. The fried fish came first (around the mid-16th century) via Western Sephardic Jews escaping the Inquisition. They brought a recipe from Portugal and Spain for Pescado Frito — covering a fish in flour and frying it in oil. It was typically served cold for Friday Sabbath as cooking on the Sabbath is forbidden in Jewish law.
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The flour and oil preserved the fish so it could be prepared ahead of time. There’s debate about who first added “Chips” into the mix, but it looks like adding fried potatoes to the combination became a thing toward the end of 1800s. (The frying of potatoes is believed to have come from the Belgiums in the late 1700’s).
Around the same time Fish met Chips, trawl fishing was starting to change the industry, allowing fisherman to haul in much larger catches. With more fresh fish coming in, there was more available for areas further inland, including cities. That meant more fish and chip carts, too. And because fish and chips were a cheap, filling and high-caloric food, it quickly became a mainstay for the working class of industrialized cities throughout England.
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There’s no clear path known how fish and chips came to the United States, but it’s safe to assume that — like all good food ideas — the idea just spread. It was likely sailors or immigrants looking for the taste of home who recreated it here.
Aquidneck Island would have been an ideal spot for the dish to take off. With fresh fish coming in through the harbors and fresh potatoes farmed throughout the island where the soil was ideal for spuds, it was meant to be.
While today there may not be an authentic Chip Wagon in the streets of Newport selling us our fish and chips in a wrap of newspaper (although there should be), there’s no shortage of the dish in town.
If you are in downtown Newport, head to the Red Parrot for its RFP Fish & Chips made with locally caught white fish in tempura batter and served with fries and homemade slaw. Or try the Ale Battered Fish and Chips across the street at Midtown Oyster Bar.
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Down the street, The Mooring has been serving up its version of fish and chips since the late 1980s using fresh Atlantic haddock and a batter made with local beer. Benjamin’s has a great version, as does The Lawn at Castle Hill. Naturally, Flo’s features fish and chips on its menu, too (a crunchy version).
If you want the authentic experience of getting your fresh fish and chips at the pub, our local pubs are ideal (but you may want to refrain from the Great Britain celebration at all our Irish pubs). Fastnet serves up some of the best in town, and O’Brien’s can stake the same claim.
The folks at Busker’s make their batter with Irish ale (as any good Irishman would). Try the fish and chips at the Speakeasy Bar and Grille, or at The Deck Restaurant if you are out for drinks and fun.
The Atlantic Grille uses Sam Adams in the batter for its fish and chips. The Portsmouth Publick House adds Narragansett Lager. The Skiff Bar at the Newport Marriott uses a buttermilk batter. Brick Alley Pub fries the fish Rhode Island-style, using a lighter breading so they’re not heavily beer-battered. Foodworks in Portsmouth makes them the same way.
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The Blue Plate Diner double-batters their fish. And at Anthony’s Seafood, you can choose either fried cod or fried flounder to go with your chips.
There are really plenty of spots to get fish and chips when you’re looking to celebrate this sacred day. You can get them at The Reef or at Annie’s on Bellevue. They are featured at the Gulf Stream, at Coddington Brewery, at Bishop's 4th Street Diner and at Localz in Portsmouth.
You can order them at La Forge, at Tremblay’s Bar and Grill, at Rhea’s Kitchen and at Johnny's Restaurant & Patio Bar. You can even get yours on the beach at Easton’s Beach Snack Bar or grab them as you're leaving the beach at Ticket’s Bar & Grille.
You can even get your fix at the Newport Creamery with an Awful, Awful to wash it down.
While fish and chips may be the national dish of Great Britain, there sure is a lot of evidence it could become the official dish of Newport. And why shouldn’t it be?
Who can’t appreciate a simply prepared dish that celebrates the bounty of our shores and land. It might not be as esteemed as lobster rolls, quahogs or calamari, but if you are looking for a meal that captures the allure of simple seaside dining, look no further than fish and chips.
That’s something to celebrate this Friday (and not just because Big Edible Oil is behind it).
Dan Lederer is a Middletown resident with 30 years experience in the food service industry throughout New England. He continues to work locally behind the scenes within the industry and remains a devoted fan of all things restaurant and hospitality related. His column appears on newportri.com and Thursdays in The Daily News. Cheers!
The Link LonkJune 02, 2021 at 09:56PM
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NEWPORT FOOD SCENE: On National Fish and Chips Day, find your catch at a local spot - newportri.com
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